Darn! The photos didn’t copy! I will try another tact to place some.
Dateline 8.1.2010 – Cape Town South Africa
We have been off the grid again. In fact, we are unsure if we will be able to be on the grid any time soon so we have decided to create our blog on Word and then cut and paste on the Kiki Goes Home site. Here goes!
We are back in Milnerton (Cape Town) after a lovely side trip to Kenton. We backtrack to catch you up.
Leaving Cape Town proved problematic. We purchased a phone (pay-as-you-go) and posted our blog and then took the longest route possible through Mitchell’s Plain (one of Cape Town’s townships) in order to leave the city. What an education. It is amazing that such clean, happy, put-together people come out of conditions that Americans would find beyond depressing.
Back to the trip. We were so behind. What should have been a half day trip ended up being a full day of driving. However, the drive was magnificent. The vistas are unbelievable and I have thousands of photos of them. I’m not guaranteeing the quality of said photos – simply the quantity. In what should have been a short four hour trip we went over mountains and through almost endless fields of blooming yellow mustard. This area is called the Overberg and the highway runs inland from the geographical tip of Africa.
At any rate, we pushed through to George, a beautiful little town nestled under the mountains. We were lucky to find a B&B (The Acorn) that had perfect accommodations for us. A beautiful single room for Kiki and a family room replete with loft beds for the other three. Both opened onto a pool and we were served breakfast the next morning outside by our lovely hostess, Esther.
Day two we were determined to get an early start. We have redefined early on this trip. Remember, we have an 11 year old boy and a 93.75 year old woman in tow! Finally we got on the road and finally arrived in Port Elizabeth and hooked up with Toff (our cousin) in a local restaurant as his wife, Kiddy, was waiting for chemo. When we started again on our final push to Kenton it was in the dark, on a smaller regional road, and through kilometers of massive construction. Be proud of Dieuwke, driving on the wrong side of the road through all of this! We tumbled into our little blue cottage (badly decorated with a sort of antique swimming theme which will come into play later.
The first day in Kenton was a trip down memory lane for Dus who hadn’t been here for decades! What a change, tons more homes, paved roads, laid on water and actual electricity! None of these were in evidence the last time she was here!
In the morning Dieuwke took Kiki over to our Ouma’s old home to visit Toff and Kiddy (our cousin and his wife) whilst Jessse and Dus went to the lagoon and beach (great pictures!). We played and played and jumped in the waves. In the afternoon Kiki finally slowed down and took a nap while the other three went to the dunes and Jesse was allowed to blow his vuvuzela with wild abandon (more pix).
The second day was a real treat. We went on an abbreviated safari just outside of Port Alfred. Initially we thought our little Nissan Tiida (a giant of a car by South African standards) could handle the bush, but we finally gave in to Jesse and went on the safari rig with our guide, Leon. Thank God! The Nissan would never have made it and we would not have been able to do any of the off “road” stuff. We have tons of pix of all of this. Early on Leon pulled off the main “road”, then stopped the rig and walked off into the bush. In a few minutes he came back smiling, “I’ve found them – the giraffes.” We drove around a deep “kloof” (gulley), again turned off the road, and saw the giraffes, 5 of them, looking at us over the treetops. Leon stopped the rig asked us to wait and on his
return asked us if we wanted to “go solo”, meaning on foot. We left Kiki in the rig as this was too much for her walker. As we approached the giraffes, four moved away. The fifth actually approached Leon who raised his hand and the giraffe nosed it. Then the giraffe leaned over and nuzzled his ear. Leon motioned for us to come forward and then had Jesse raise his had. Jesse reached up and petted the giraffe on the nose. Leon told us that this giraffe, known as Gambit, was raised for a short time by a veterinarian in Port Alfred. Obviously, one doesn’t keep a giraffe in town for long. Gambit was then released to this small heard, but he has taken a liking to Leon and will often accommodate Leon’s guests and give them a nuzzle.
After seeing plenty of other game, but no predators, we started for home. On our way we stopped in Port Alfred at the fish market and picked up 3 K of Kob which we took in to the local pub in Kenton and the proprietor, Mattie, cooked it up for us. It was absolutely delicious and second only to the Kingklip we had in George on the next night!
We returned to the cottage and on Jesse’s urging pushed our twin beds together for comfort and warmth. This involved moving the bedside tables out of the way. Dus carefully removed the lamp and her glass of water and moved the heavy-as-lead piece of beach themed furniture. Dieuwke removed the lamp but left the “darling” little statuette of a 1920’s bathing beauty which began to slip precariously. There was no saving her and she crashed to the tile flood and suffered a rather clean decapitation. There was no way to undo the damage so D left a few rand (what we thought the lady was worth) with a note of apology.
The next morning we intended to get an early start (again) on our homeward trip. Again we were slow in starting. We stopped to say goodbye to Kiddy and Toff and to get some pix of the old house. We left some of Oumie’s ashes under the bougainvillea by the front door.
Then we went for a last goodbye to the lagoon and left a bit of her there as well. As we were saying our last goodbyes the phone rang. It was Hettie, the caretaker of the cottage and ultimately of the decapitated lady. She was in a dither! The decapitated lady was a treasure and our paltry offering was just that (an insult!) and we must return and give R100 in order to make things right! Somehow this seemed out of step with the scattering of our mother’s ashes but Hettie didn’t know that. We returned and paid the enormous sum of R100 which didn’t seem so bad once we realized that the expensive figurine was only worth $13 in US currency. I am confident in stating that she was still over-priced!
On our way out to the N1 (the main road) we stopped at the pineapple lady’s stand and bought the best fresh pineapple juice ever! Then we drove, drove, drove, drove, drove, drove, drove, drove, drove (Jesse’s description) until we reached George again. We ended up at The Acorn (www.acornguesthousehouse.co.za) again and had another wonderful night with our hosts, Esther and Colin. We went to dinner at the Kingfisher and enjoyed the kingklip mentioned earlier. We had a beer and started back to the Acorn with Dieuwke at the wheel of our trusty Tiida. As usual we were guided out of the parking spot by a gentleman whom we tipped and then we nosed our way onto the main highway that runs through George. It was deserted and we laughed and talked as we headed home. Suddenly horns began hooting, lights which were heading right at us swerved around us. Dieuwke froze (like a deer in the headlights), applied the brakes and took her hands off the wheel as the final vehicle refused to give up in this deadly game of chicken. Finally, with a last blast of the horn, he went around us. D slowly came back to life and got us back over to the correct side of the road.
During the night the wind was howling – both of us thought we were going to wake up to rain and cold. Not so; it was wonderfully warm and sunny. We were experiencing a “berg wind” which blows over the mountains from the Karoo desert warming the more coastal areas. We were treated to another delicious omelet and some great conversation. The Acorn is now our official stop in George. Esther had noticed Liz’s bag with all the pins on our first trip through and she, without knowing that we would be back, had taken it upon herself to pull a pin from her own collection to add to the bag. It is on its way to you, Liz! Esther also gave us a great recommendation to stop at Witsand, the whale nursery of S.A. She didn’t promise that we would see whales, but she thought that there might be a good chance of it. There were at least 20 and we watched them roll, wave and poke their noses up. We went into the tiny local pub for some lunch (the best calamari ever!) as we continued to view whales and breakers through the windows. Jesse was enjoying himself so much that he stayed on the beach with some new friends while we ate. We finally tore ourselves away and pushed through to Cape Town. The picture shows Kiki whale watching and if you look carefully you can see a whale waving at her!
There is still no internet here at Lagoon Lodge and we hope to cut and paste this into the blog later. We shall see. First we must hose everyone off in anticipation of tea with Johann and Janice and do a bit of food shopping as we are self catering again.
Sunday was a day of rest. Kiki slept like a baby and we just took it easy. We did go to tea at Johann and Janice’s lovely apartment. It is at Moulee point, the home of South Africa’s oldest lighthouse which is right outside their balcony as is the beautiful new stadium. Janice served a lovely tea. And we sat on the balcony with the propane heater going. Jesse ran across the road to the grassy area by the sea and played as we watched. As the sun set we walked across the street to the park with J & J and Blue (their border collie) to meet Jesse.
Monday we went to Worcester, the town where our Kiki and our mother grew up and where their parents and grandfather are buried. The original plan was to go to Table Mountain but it was socked in so we decided to go inland. The drive to Worcester from Cape Town is through beautiful dramatic mountains. When we arrived there we thought it would be best to go to the cemetery first and then top that off with a lovely lunch and some wine. It all sounded so easy as both Dieuwke and Kiki had been there within the last 10 years. Our search led us through the less affluent although terribly busy side of town. It was colorful, interesting, full of people (all of whom seemed to be alive). Our search for the cemetery was taking us nowhere fast! Finally we gave in and went to the other side of town and went to the Information Center. The lovely young woman who helped us did mention that we were the first people from the States to ask for the cemetery! It is amazing how easy it is to find once you have directions. It is also amazing how dry and unkempt it is. After much searching we found our grandparents graves. Kiki mentioned that she thought her grandfather was buried there as well and I was able to find his grave. We also found the marker for the artist who did the portrait of our mother.
After the cemetery, it was back to the very put-together, neat-as-a-pin Afrikaaner side of town to visit the old family home which is now the Church Street Lodge (www.churchst.co.za). It was fun to see Kiki just light up as we walked in and saw the sunlight streaming into what was the old sitting room / dining area. The space was comfortably set with couches and several tables for the bed and breakfast business that is now there. Dieuwke spoke with the woman working the desk who was very gracious and indicated that the current owner was there doing some work. He was delightful and more than a little surprised to learn that he was visiting with a resident from over 90 years ago. Kiki gave him a history lesson on his B & B explaining how in addition to a private residence the building was also a clinic that served predominantly the coloured population – yes, on the Afrikaaner side of town no less.
Tuesday, 3 August brought the much anticipated luncheon with faculty from the University of Cape Town economics department. Our uncle Bill, Kiki’s late husband, was an economist of some renown who spent most of his career at UCT. With Johann’s help, we had offered all of uncle Bill’s papers and writings to the university and they were thrilled. When the university learned Kiki was in Cape Town, they arranged a luncheon to honor and thank her, and we were all invited along. It was delightful. Kiki was treated like royalty. The faculty members and archivist were all very personable which confirmed, especially for Kiki, the decision to donate all papers to UCT. The event was not too pretentious – even Jesse enjoyed it. The campus, located on the slopes of Table Mountain is gorgeous (except for the particularly ugly, 1960’s atrocity of a building where the luncheon was held – the Dean of the School of Commerce actually apologized for the building). Below are pictures of the campus and luncheon.
After lunch we were back to the lawyer’s office to wrap things up. Papers were signed, Jesse ate cookies and more cookies and we said our final farewell to Johann.
Wednesday August 4th we woke up to a beautiful day. It was actually hot!!! We went up Table Mountain. Again, we have tons of pictures. It was lovely.
We negotiated the rather rough terrain (Table Mountain is NOT flat!) with Kiki and her walker to find the spot where she had scattered Uncle Bill’s ashes years ago. It took some doing but we found a lovely spot and scattered some of Mom’s ashes there as well. The day was relatively clear. Desmion (Dassie) wanted to find a dassie – a little rock rabbit and the creature she was nicknamed for. A couple of loops around the walks of Table Mountain turned up nothing and Desmion (Dassie) was sad. Suddenly Jesse came running up to announce a dassie sighting. He said I MIGHT be able to see it if I hurried and so I did. There was the dassie, glossy, sassy, beautiful. As the shutters snapped the dassie posed. Ahhhh, what a beautiful creature. And then we realized that they were everywhere! And we took photos of them all!
We wrapped up the day at the Victoria and Alfred Waterfront with some of the best fish and chips of the trip. It is evident that the trip is taking its toll on Kiki – she was very tired last night.
With our limited internet access (Lagoon Lodge is not on our list of recommendations!) this will probably be our last post. Today, Thursday 5 August 2010, is overcast and very windy. Needless to say, we will not be taking the boat out to Robben Island today. Unfortunate, because that really is a moving and thought provoking experience. Though he has been there before, Jesse is at an age where it may have made quite an impression on him.
All in all, the trip has been successful. Amazingly, Kike is already talking about her next trip to Africa. I suppose this is what keeps her going and active – she is always looking forward to something.
Totsiens. See you soon.






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